Say it isn’t so. It’s bad enough that celebrity chefs have become entertainers instead of cooks, now we have a new macho breed of butchers? Look, I’ve been the butcher’s friend and advocate for years. I believe in a good butcher, I revere a good butcher, but please, don’t make him a rock star. HOWEVER,…

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  In Umbria, porchetta is a celebrated dish. It’s a whole pig that is stuffed with wild fennel, garlic, rubbed with salt and roasted, it’s divine, shows up at all celebrations, can be eaten at any time of the day and has made vegetarians turn back into carnivores.   There is no real equivalent to porchetta…

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When I need a something special, I head over to Jeffrey’s Meat Market shop at the Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. I knew the whole weekend was going to be special, as we had very honored guests coming who really know their food and wine. One of our guests, a…

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