We’ve been spending time in the Montefalco area; I think it’s because of vendammia (the grape harvest). There is something so alluring, positive, hopeful, reoccurring, ancient about the ritual of picking grapes. In these chaotic and seemingly rudderless times, watching the grapes be harvested makes me think there will be a tomorrow and there will be a table with food and wine. Take comfort where you can find it.
We took comfort and refuge from the rain at the Redibis Ristorante in Bevagna. It’s built into the ruins of an ancient Roman theatre and they have cleverly decorated the space so modern and ancient enhance each other.
There is a huge picture window framing the open kitchen so you can observe your meal being prepared. I have mixed feelings about the trend of showcasing the kitchen in operation. On one hand its marvelous theater; on the other hand…it could just be too much information. How many diners really want to see ALL the inner workings of a kitchen? I know in my cooking classes there are students that can handle cleaning an anchovy and there are students who will be content with looking the other way. Fortunately Redibis gives the diner the option as it is a long space and only one end has access to the kitchen view so everyone can be happy.
I must say that we enjoyed watching the passionate chef Antonio Falcone prepare some delicious dishes. We started with a near perfect plate of warm pecorino sformata (like a cheese custard) paired with a cool, poached pear. It was a divine combination of warm/cool, sweet/sharp and played with all of your senses. Our other starter was a warm and delicious roasted quail accented with bits of prune and pancetta. We moved on to the decadently rich braised veal cheek, which sadly left us no room for dessert. The waiter was one of the best we’ve encountered in ages, professional, warm and knew when to come and when to disappear. Such professionalism is a luxury in and of itself and I’m sorry we didn’t catch his name.
Via dell’Anfiteatro – Bevagna (PG)